Nikon Camera Tip–Using the ML-L3 Infrared Remote Control

Did your Nikon DSLR stop working while you were using the Infrared Nikon ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control? Don’t worry…it’s normal.

After setting your Nikon camera to Remote Control Mode using the Shooting Mode button or dial, the camera will start actively searching for an Infrared signal. That active search uses additional battery power.

In an effort to conserve battery power, Nikon has set your camera to end Remote Control Mode automatically after no operations are performed for a selected period of time. Typical Nikon default settings can be one or five minutes depending on which camera model you own. It can be real annoying. Especially when you are trying to coordinate a group shot that you have to be in.

Good news though…the time your Nikon will continue to search for an Infrared signal can be changed. Look in your Nikon’s menus for Remote On Duration. In some DSLRs, like the Nikon D3000, it will be in the Setup menu. In many of the other DSLRs, like the D90 or D7000, it will be in the Custom Settings menu. If you can’t find it, look up Remote On Duration in the operator’s manual.

Once you find Remote On Duration, you will find four possible settings; 1 minute, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, and 15 minutes. I keep all of my cameras set for 15 minutes and have never noticed any significant battery drain. Except for very rare cases, 15 minutes is ample time between images, and I don’t have to manually walk over to the camera to reactivate the feature.

If you have any questions about photography or your camera, feel free to post them below or send me a note through my contact page. I will do my best to answer them for you.

2011 Rockford AirFest–Photographic Airshow finally complete

Well it took me exactly two weeks to get all of my airshow photos edited and the post production work done, but the photographic airshow is now ready over at Flickr. Out of the 1400 images, I narrowed it down to 62 that I liked. Here’s the link: 2011 Rockford Airfest Slide Show

Lima Lima Flight Team performing in their T-34 Mentors. This photo was made using the Nikon D7000, Nikon AF-S VR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 AF-S, hand held.

Steady As She Goes – Camera Handholding Techniques

With the advent of the modern digital camera, keeping the camera steady in low light and with larger focal length lenses is not the problem it was back in the days of film. It’s easy to set the ISO higher or turn on Auto ISO to get higher shutter speeds. But there’s a tradeoff when using a higher ISO in that you are sacrificing image quality and picking up noise in order to keep the image sharp.

Rather than using technology to compensate for those longer exposures, that longer focal length lens, or just bad camera handling, why not adopt some tried and true handholding techniques to steady your camera? Of course, the best method would be to use a tripod or monopod. But sometimes using a tripod isn’t an option. And if you’re like me, tripods just slow you down. I tend to shoot using a photojournalistic approach, meaning I shoot fast and always on the move.

Here are a few of the techniques I’ve used over the years to steady my handheld camera.

1. With camera in hand, you should have a good solid grip, but not tense. If your knuckles are turning white, you’re holding your camera too tight. Relax a little.

2. Typically, your right hand will hold the cameras grip while controlling the many dials and buttons including the shutter release. The left hand will support the weight of the camera and the fingers will control the focus and zoom rings on the lens if needed.

3. You’re going to use your entire body as firm support and acting as a tripod. With the camera to your eye, your elbows should be tucked in tight against your body acting as two legs of the tripod. Your face will act as the third tripod leg. No chicken wings with your elbows pointing outward. If your elbows are out, not only are you going to have shaky camera work, but you will tire fast which will just compound the problem.

4. If available, brace yourself against something solid like a tree, wall, pole or doorway. If nothing is available and it won’t have an negative impact on your composition, then try sitting down, squatting, or knelling and resting your elbows on your legs. Lying down on the ground with your arms and camera out in front of you also works well.

5. Try placing your camera on a solid surface like a rock, fence post, or roof of a car. All the camera stores sell bean bags and a multitude of gadgets that cushion your camera when placing it on a solid surface. They work to protect your camera finish and also will put more of the camera in contact with the solid surface. I don’t use any of these products, but can see the benefit in using them.

6. Hold your breath while shooting. No…not until you turn blue and pass out. Prior to taking any photo, take a deep breath, let it partially out, hold your breath and then release the shutter. I’m talking about a second or two tops. At first, you will have to consciously remind yourself to do this. After a while it becomes second nature. I’ve been shooting for 35 years now, and holding my breath just happens. I know I do it, but am not aware of it.

So, next time you’re out shooting, give some of these techniques a try if you’re not already using them. They will help you steady your camera in any and all situations. Even if you are shooting at a fast enough shutter speed where blur won’t be an issue, these techniques will make you look more professional and you will feel in control.

Using these techniques and practicing will also let you eventually break one of the rules of photography. You’ve probably heard the old adage that when handheld, your camera’s shutter speed should never drop below the reciprocal of your lens focal length. Meaning that if you are using a 135mm lens, your shutter speed should be no lower than 1/135^th of a second (or something close like 1/125th). Using some good handholding techniques and breath control may allow you to drop down to 1/60^th of a second. For some of you…maybe even lower than that. Practicing and experimentation are the only things that will give you those answers.

Convey Motion in Your Photo by Blurring the Background

We use photography to tell a story. Conveying a three dimensional story in a two dimensional medium can be challenging at times. There are many little techniques we use to overcome these challenges. Blurring the background is one of those techniques.

Blurring the background separates your main subject from the background and suggests motion or speed. It can, however, be difficult to successfully blur out the background while holding your subject perfectly still in the camera’s frame. Here it the technique taught to me as a US Navy Photographer, and one I still use today.

1. Set the shutter speed of your camera low. You could have the best pan in the world, but if your shutter speed is too high, your going to freeze everything. You’ll have to experiment to find what works for your subject. The aircraft above was photographed at 1/250th of a second. 1/30th of a second may be a good place to start for someone running or on a bicycle.

2. Position yourself at the end of the pan. For example, if your subject will be moving left to right, position yourself facing to the right.

3. Wind yourself around to the start of the pan. Do not move your feet. You will feel a little uncomfortable since your body is twisted.

4. Have your camera close to your eye and ready to shoot. Your elbows should be tucked in tight against your body giving your camera a steady support.

5. As your subject comes into frame, bring the camera to your eye and begin to unwind your body as you hold the subject in frame. Pan slowly and smoothly.

6. At a predetermined point, trigger the shutter and make the photo. For those with multi-exposure capabilities, fire off a series of frames.

7. Do not stop your pan after making your photo(s). Just like in sports, follow through. Continue your pan until you body is square with your feet and you are fully unwound.

By unwinding your body as you pan your camera, you are moving from an uncomfortable to a comfortable position. Using this technique, there is a much better chance that you will remain steady and be successful at keeping your main subject sharp.

Now, go out and give it a try. Don’t get discouraged if your first attempts are totally out of focus. A good smooth pan and the ability to hold your subject in frame takes a little practice.

2011 Rockford AirFest–Great Show and Lots of Photos

The 2011 Rockford AirFest was held the first weekend in June. This year’s theme was “Celebrating 100 Years of Naval Aviation” A subject near and dear to my heart. Unfortunately, due to a little incident, the Blue Angels had to cancel and go into a safety stand-down. But as they say; “on with the show”

One of the highlights of the airshow for me was getting to see Sean Tucker fly again. I’m not sure what I like more, the skill of his flying or the beautiful little biplane he flies. The Oracle Challenger III is a fairly new plane for him, but very similar in color and size to some of his past aircraft. I was particularly happy that I was able to capture a perfectly focused image of him passing through one of his target gates during the show. I missed it a couple years ago.

The brand new Heavy Metal Air Team was able to fill in on Sunday only. This team put on an outstanding show flying the L-39 Albatros adorned in an Arctic camouflage paint scheme.

I spent eight hours out on the tarmac Sunday photographing both static displays and the airshow. All told, I made 1400 images. These are just two images that initially caught my eye. I still have a lot of editing and post production to do yet. When all done, I will put a link here for a slide show of all my good images.